Evaporative Emission System

When we think of automotive emissions, we often think of the dirty stuff coming out of our exhaust pipes. The internal combustion process creates noxious chemicals (like CO2 and nitrogen oxides) that are released into the air as we drive. But tailpipe emissions are controlled using a variety of systems like catalytic converters and exhaust gas recirculation systems, and they're regulated by state and federal legislation.

However, did you know that there's another type of emission that comes from our cars? They're called evaporative emissions. The gasoline in your fuel tank and in you fuel lines slowly evaporates over time, releasing volatile organic compounds into the air. The Environmental Protection Agency says there are enough of these emissions to contribute to air pollution and pose a health risk to humans.

Because of their harmful nature, the government also regulates these evaporative emissions in new vehicles. This means that carmakers are required to install evaporative emissions control systems onto every new car and truck they build. These systems have been in place since the early 1970s. But as technology advances, car companies find newer and more innovative ways to mitigate pollution. I’ll tell you how evaporative emissions control systems work, and ways you can prevent your vehicle's fuel from evaporating under certain conditions.

Controlling Emissions

The fuel we put in our cars contains more than 150 chemicals, including benzene, toluene and sometimes even lead. These ingredients can cause dizziness, breathing problems and headaches when they're inhaled. Inhaling large amounts of gasoline fumes can even cause death. On top of all that, evaporated gasoline is one of the leading causes of smog and air pollution.

For these reasons, carmakers are required to install systems on their vehicles that help mitigate gasoline evaporations. Environmental regulation in the United States began in earnest in the early 1970s, and as a result, cars have had evaporative emission control (EVAP) systems ever since. These systems are designed to store and dispose of fuel vapors before they can escape into the atmosphere.

A typical system consists of a small canister full of charcoal, valves, hoses and vents in the fuel lines and a sealed fuel tank cap. When fuel evaporates inside the gas tank, the excess vapors are transferred to the charcoal canister. They're stored there until they can safely be transferred back to the engine to be burned with the normal air-fuel mixture.

When that's ready to happen, a valve creates a vacuum that draws the vapors into the engine. Fresh air is also drawn in through the vents and valves to mix with the vapors for better combustion. These systems can be controlled mechanically, or like on most on newer cars, through the engine's computer. The computer tells the valves when to purge the canister of vapors. This typically happens when the car is in motion, rather than at idle. As you may expect, things can go wrong with the EVAP system, too. If the canister fails to purge or does so under the wrong conditions, it can hamper the performance and emissions of your vehicle.

Keeping Gas Evaporation Down

It's no secret that gasoline is volatile. And it evaporates quickly, too. In fact, your car's fuel can turn from a liquid into a gas at a very fast rate, especially when it's hot outside. This is bad for the environment, with 20 percent of all hydrocarbon emissions from cars coming from fuel evaporation. It's bad for your wallet, too. Unless you're an executive at an oil company, you probably aren't a fan of the way gas prices have been on a steady rise over the past few years. It's bad enough that your car burns gasoline, why do you also have to lose more to evaporation? The good news is that there are things you can do to your gasoline to slow the process down from evaporating. First and foremost, make sure your fuel cap is secured tightly. Fuel can escape right out of your tank if it's not airtight. Whenever possible, park in the shade during the summer months. Even though modern cars have advanced EVAP systems to prevent too much evaporation from occurring, gas does still evaporate from the tank, especially when the car is parked in the sun. This is even worse when it's extremely hot outside. Parking in the shade helps keep the entire vehicle cooler and reduces fuel evaporation.

Buy your gas in the early morning or later at night. It's warmer in the afternoon and early evening, which means evaporation is more prevalent. That's why you're sometimes hit with that nasty gasoline smell at filling stations during the heat of the day.

P0440 OBD-II Trouble Code

This indicates that a part of the EVAP control system is no longer functioning correctly. The EVAP system consists of many parts, including (but not limited to) the gas cap, fuel lines, carbon canister, purge valve, and other hoses. The (EVAP) emission control system prevents the escape of fuel vapors from a vehicle's fuel system. When the engine is running a purge control valve opens allowing intake vacuum to siphon the fuel vapors into the engine. A code P0440 could mean one or more of the following has happened: The gas cap is not installed or working properly the purge solenoid has failed the canister is plugged and not working properly

Possible Solutions with a P0440 OBD-II trouble code, diagnosis can be tricky at times. Here are some things to try:

• Remove and reinstall the gas cap,
• Clear the code, and drive for a day and see if the codes come back.
• Inspect the EVAP system for cuts/holes in tubes/hoses Inspect for damaged or disconnected hoses around the Evap purge solenoid
• Check and/or replace the sensor
• Check and/or replace the purge valve Have a professional use a smoke machine to detect leaks

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Diagnostic Fees

So you bring your vehicle to an auto repair shop to determine the cause of a particular problem that your car is experiencing. The mechanic takes a look at your car, hooks your vehicle to a computer for a scan, and then tells you the cause of the problem—giving you repair options and their corresponding amount. You think you’ll be able to fix the problem yourself, so you decline. Then the mechanic gives you the bill: a whopping $100 for the diagnosis! Should you or should you not pay? A mechanics service is not free so expect to be billed for all diagnosis. A mechanic cannot automatically know the repair to your vehicle unless it is diagnosed.

All auto repair shops today charge a diagnostic fee on top of the fee for the actual repair. And in reality, this is valid. You need to pay for the service of the mechanic who did the diagnosis. Mechanics compare this to paying for a doctor when you go in for a consultation. In some instances when you let the shop do the repair, it can just include the diagnostic fee on the entire fee for the repair done. In cases when the diagnostic done was just a simple one, the shop owner can also decide not to charge for the diagnosis—but that’s up to the shop owner.

In the end,you will pay a diagnosis fee if only to be sure that the person handling your vehicle is someone who is an expert at what he does and someone who is capable of determining the real problem of your ride. If you want to avoid an exorbitant diagnostic amount, you can do your shopping in advance to find the usual diagnostic rate. You can also ask the shop in advance before the mechanic does anything with your vehicle. This way, you won’t have to deal with surprises when you finally get the bill and you see a three-figure amount for a simple diagnosis. Diagnosis is usually charged by the flat rate hour and you should be asked if you want to continue diagnosis or not. If after an hour or two the mechanic has not gotten to the root of the problem you must make a decision whether you want to continue, because it will get more expensive and the repair has not begun yet.

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A Few Ways to Extend the Life of Your Car

Simple things you can do to extend the life of your car are to first of all check your oil every two weeks and follow the recommendation in your owner’s manual. If you do a lot of city driving you will want to adjust the manufacturers recommendations and choose these steps a lot sooner.

 Oil changes are an extremely important and simple way to care for your car. Oil keeps the parts of your car lubricated, which in turn reduces friction, allowing the parts to last longer. Over time, however, oil breaks down due to the high heat, becoming less effective; hence the need for oil changes.

 Don’t Ignore Problems. No matter how long you wish the check engine light would go away, it’s not going to. But the longer you drive with a problem, the more serious it will become and could end up costing you a lot more money. So take your car to a qualified mechanic sooner rather than later and you’ll spend less in the long run.

 Don’t Neglect the Air Filter. Most don’t give the air filter much thought but it’s crucial for preventing debris from getting in the engine and causing unnecessary wear. A dirty filter does this less effectively and can also cause the fuel injector to produce an incorrect air to fuel ratio needed for the car to run. Make sure to change your air filter regularly consult the manual for how often.

 Check your fan belts and hoses for wear and tear and replace them before they break. A noisy belt is a sign of it wearing out. Check the tires for abnormal wear. Rotate the tires every 7,500 miles to preserve them. Have wheel alignment done every time the tires are replaced or when there is abnormal wear found. Check battery terminals for white deposits. Use a wire brush to remove deposits. Lubricate door hinges and locks with a penetrating grease or graphite lubricant spray once a year.

 Keep the car clean inside and out. Wash and wax the outside. This will keep the paint from fading especially in hot and sunny climates. It also gets rid of road salt and other harmful substances that can cause rust and have a negative impact on your cars performance. I know that gas is expensive these days. And you may think that you are saving money by using regular instead of premium octane fuel. However, regular is going to burn slower and cause deposits and carbon build up a lot faster than premium. You will need to perform tune up and maintenance more often.

 Save hundreds of dollars by doing some simple repairs yourself. You can learn techniques for changing wiper blades, replacing your air filter, changing the oil, or replacing your battery. Before you begin, do a little homework, get the tools you need and remember to safely dispose of any liquids that come out of your car. By doing something simple, such as paying attention to leaks, you can get your car to the service dealer earlier and save money on costly repairs. Knowing the normal color of engine oil and other fluids will make it easier to detect a problem, and will also tip the service manager that you know what you’re doing. Brown fluid is engine oil; bright green or orange fluid is anti-freeze or coolant; clear or light brown fluid is clutch or brake fluid.

 Becoming familiar with how to perform your own maintenance is a great way to make sure that when the service adviser is explaining what is wrong or what is needed on your car you will clearly understand.

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What is a Flat Rate Repair System?

The flat rate system is what 99% of the repair shops in the automotive repair industry use. It IS the industry standard.

Many people believe that it's a way for shops to rip off their customers. These people are usually not well informed. The flat rate system of repair estimating and billing isn't dishonest at all, but it does present some interesting problems at the shop. Let's say you take your vehicle in for a brake replacement. The mechanic looks up the repair in his book, and it tells him that replacing the brakes in your vehicle takes 3 hours. You're billed 3 hours labor for the repair, a flat rate based on what the book says.  Let's say the mechanic knows what he's doing and is able to install your brakes in under 3 hours. Under the flat rate system you still pay for 3 hours labor. If you have an above average mechanic with years of experience, it stands to reason that he'll be able to do the same job faster. He still bills for 3 hours because it's his extensive training and experience that make him faster, training and experience that cost him money along the way. It could take him 5 hours; you still will pay the 3 hour flat rate. There are many reasons why it can take longer to complete the job.

The management puts lots of pressure on the technicians to bill as much as humanly possible. If they fall below a certain number of hours per day, the techs have problems. And it doesn't matter why the day went slower. Left in a position where one slowed repair can put him behind, lose him money, and get the bosses breathing down his neck, some mechanics will rush the job and take short cuts. That's when the flat rate system can fail. This not only causes problems for the mechanic but also for the vehicle owner. The vehicle owner is left thinking they are being ripped off when it is not true at all. We are left to fend against the rules of management in that particular business.

So how do we (mechanics and car owners) change the system? Instead of feeling like a victim when we go for repair and bouncing from place to place looking for the best pay or the lowest rate, we should inform ourselves as much as possible about how things work. That way we know when someone is not being honest with us. We cannot change the system. But we can have a little more patience and change the way we think, the way we operate and never fall victim to dishonest management again!!!

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How Aftermarket Parts Can Void Your New Car Warranty

If you install aftermarket parts and you have a failure in that particular area of modification, you may have warranty issues unless the part in question actually caused the problem that the warranty claim is about. For example, if you install aftermarket shocks and then your turbo blows, the manufacturer cannot deny you warranty coverage on the turbo (Unless the shocks somehow directly caused the turbo failure, which defies reason).
But if you install an ECU chip upgrade which increases turbo boost, and then your turbo fails, the manufacture could probably deny your claim. It is reasonable to think that increased boost could lead to a turbo failure.

A performance chip may void the warranty. If your engine blows and a technician finds that is chipped, he can deem that it was to the performance upgrade. It can be said that the engine was over revved from racing. A lot of people choose to raise the performance of the vehicle to boost its power and speed. You can install a high flow air filter and exhaust which will have no effect on warranty repair.  Replacing the camshaft with one that keeps the valves open longer will increase some power. Depending on the degree of cam lobe lift the performance can be adjusted through RPM range. Some dealerships do performance modifications that are compliant with manufacturer regulations. Racing the vehicle is a sure way to void your warranty. If your odometer has been disconnected, replaced or tampered with the dealer cannot determine the exact mileage. This is usually grounds for a voided warranty.

If you install aftermarket parts and you have a failure in that particular area of modification, you may have warranty issues unless the part in question actually CAUSED the problem that the warranty claim is about. For example, if you install aftermarket shocks, and then your turbo blows, the manufacturer cannot deny you warranty coverage on the turbo. (Unless the shocks somehow directly caused the turbo failure, which defies reason.) But if you install an ECU chip upgrade that increases turbo boost, and then your turbo fails, the manufacturer could probably deny your claim. It is reasonable to think that increased boost could lead to a turbo failure. A performance chip may void the warranty. If your engine blows and a technician finds that it is chipped, he can deem that it was to the performance upgrade. It can be said that the engine was over revved from racing. A lot of people choose to raise the performance of the vehicle to boost it’s power and speed. But some cars were not designed with performance modifications in mind. You can install a high flow air filter and exhaust. Replacing the camshaft with one that keeps the valve open longer will increase some power. Depending on the degree of cam lobe lift engine performance can be adjusted to give more power through the RPM range. Some dealerships do performance modifications that are compliant with manufacturer regulations.

Racing the vehicle is a sure way to void your warranty. If your car’s odometer has been disconnected, tampered with or replaced, the dealer cannot determine the exact mileage. This is usually grounds for a voided warranty. There's no surefire way to know if your odometer has been tampered with, but if you order a vehicle history report the dealer can check for inconsistencies in mileage reporting. I have seen this during my career, especially with luxury or sports cars.Clusters are expensive, but when you are selling the car with low mileage on it you can make up the difference. Simply having an aftermarket part or modifying your vehicle cannot void your warranty. However, if the reason for a parts failure is unclear, a dealer will usually charge you for diagnosis of the vehicle. If the aftermarket part was not properly installed or a modification led to failure. It is within the dealers right to void the warranty for that part, and you will have to pay for the repairs out of pocket. If the aftermarket parts had nothing to do with the repairs in question, you will be refunded the fee for diagnosis. Any aftermarket performance parts on your vehicle can cause a dealer to suspect that you either drive hard or possibly race it. Although, they may not void warranties modifications may raise a red flag when the car is in for service.

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What’s a Maintenance Schedule?

To make sure your car continues to run properly and depending on the type of car you own and the mileage, there is a routine schedule for maintenance service suggested in every car owner’s manual.

Monthly maintenance service will generally include checking the following: Check Engine Light on, Tire Pressure and Condition, Cleaning, and Windshield Washer Fluid, Lights.

Every 3,000 miles, maintenance service will generally include checking the following: Automatic Transmission Fluid, Check Engine Light On, Exhaust, Lights, Windshield Washer Fluid, Battery and Cables, Engine Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Power Steering Fluid, Belts, Engine Oil and Filter, Hoses, Tire Pressure and Condition

Every 6,000 miles, maintenance service will generally include checking the following: Automatic Transmission Fluid, Chassis Lubrication, Engine Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Power Steering Fluid, Wiper Blades, Battery and Cables, Check Engine Light on, Engine Oil and Filter, Hoses, Tire Pressure and Condition, Belts, Polish, Exhaust, Lights, Windshield Washer Fluid

Every 9,000 miles, maintenance service will generally include checking the following: Automatic Transmission Fluid, Check Engine Light on, Exhaust, Lights, Windshield Washer Fluid, Battery and Cables, Engine Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Power Steering Fluid, Belts, Engine Oil and Filter, Hoses, Tire Pressure and Condition

Every 12,000 miles, maintenance service will generally include checking the following: Automatic Transmission Fluid, Check Engine Light on, Brakes, Engine Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Power Steering Fluid, Battery and Cables, Windshield Washer Fluid, Cabin Air Filter, Polish, Engine Oil and Filter, Hoses, Steering and Suspension, Wiper Blades, Belts, Chassis Lubrication, Coolant (Antifreeze), Exhaust, Lights, Tire Pressure and Condition.

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The First Steps In Car Diagnosis

Automobiles of today are highly advanced pieces of machinery the first step in any automotive diagnosis is to connect a scan tool to check if any faults have been logged. Scan tools are needed to do basic settings on motors, interrogate control modules and test various electrical components. The second step is to see if the factory has released any technical bulletins; a bulletin can quickly alert a person to a fix before a diagnosis is started. (You may be able to do this by searching on-line) If there are no bulletins found then a thorough diagnosis must be started. A test drive can show the condition of the car while it is being driven and help the diagnosis. If all else fails then the vehicle will need to be taken to a reputable technician. Preferably one who has experience with your make and model.

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Emissions

A Catalytic Converter is used to reduce harmful emissions coming from the exhaust (i.e. carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxides, hydrocarbons). Made of stainless steel, it heats up (cooks) the toxic gases to reduce the amount of pollutants before it is emitted from the exhaust.

 There are many different types of Catalytic Converter. These converters are designed differently based on the make of the vehicle. The exterior of the Catalytic Converter is stainless steel while the interior is made of ceramic material/monolithic substrate material.
 Extend the life of a Catalytic Converter by keeping the vehicle in tune. This also prevents cylinder misfires (when the fuel charge does not ignite and passes through the exhaust system as un-burned fuel) which is one of the common causes for the Catalytic Converter to fail.

 What Causes the Catalytic Converter to Fail?

1. Degradation that occurs over time due to constant passage of pollutants
2. Cylinder misfiring which causes the Catalytic Converter to overheat and melt down the interior (substrate brick) Symptoms of a Failing or Faulty Catalytic Converter?

1. Failed Emissions Test
2. Check Light Engine On
3. Engine Overheating
4. Lack of Power and Engine Becomes Sluggish
5. Rattling Sound Coming From the Catalytic Converter
6. Extreme Heat Coming From Catalytic Converter

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Fixes it Right the First Time

Roman Bihansky / Automotive Technician

I started working for Honda in 1990 and quickly moved to Volkswagen 1 year later. Since then I have worked on Volkswagen, Audi, Porsche, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Bentley, and Rolls Royce. I enjoy working on the super cars. They are incredible pieces of machinery that not so many drivers have had the chance to experience.

Qualified Master Technician and Factory trained Audi, VW and Porsche certified with 20 years of automotive experience. Extensive VW/Audi driveability, electrical, and transmission experience. Motivated and hard-working, reliable and productive with a proven ability to deliver high quality work and excellent customer satisfaction.

I work on cars ranging from daily drivers such as Volkswagen and Audi to super cars like Ferrari, Porsche, Lamborghini, Maserati, and the luxury car lines of Rolls Royce and Bentley.

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